On Friday evening, we swerved through rush hour traffic towards the Indore airport, thinking our flight was leaving half an hour earlier than it was scheduled. The weather outside was near perfect- close to 80 degrees and sunny, with a light breeze- similar to Boston weather, but the driver kept the windows closed and a/c on because the pollution on the road was unbearable.
Indore is an intensely dense city. Millions of people live in cramped high-level houses in between dusty roads which the local government has been time-pressed to repave. The drainage system is still in development too. When it rains, my cousins warn me to not step into the “kitcharrd”, the muddy puddles that pepper the road. “You don’t have that in America,” they say. The smog and crowds dispel as soon as you pass the city limits though- we were able to leave the windows wide open and enjoy the fresh air on our faces the day before, when we traveled on the newly-made Indore-Bhopal bypass to Pushpgiri. This main artery out of Indore was surrounded by fields that stretched passed the horizon. The road was quite smooth, and there was no speed limit. I put my iPod in my ears and blasted the Slumdog soundtrack as the air billowed around my head. I fell asleep while watching the buffalo and camel herders working in the fields.
When I woke up, we had arrived at the hillside Jain temple in Pushpgiri. The temple was being expanded to accommodate more followers for larger ceremonies since a new Jain muni would be living and preaching there. Close to thirty workers were clinking away in small warehouses at the base of the hill, chipping elaborate designs into rock that would form the foundations of the new portion. One of the temple managers showed us around the compound- also in construction was a school and hostel where poor children from the surrounding villages would live and be educated for free. Impressive- the school looked like a Jain temple from the outside but was outfitted with modernities children living in rural villages can only wish to see. The rooms in the hostel were less glamorous, with only the solid cement in place and laundry drying outside each iron fence, but the manager delighted in the idea that two children had the luxury of their own room and food prepared for them every day by the temple cooks.
However, the food we had asked the temple cooks to arrange for us was not ready since we had arrived at the temple too late- the cooks were already busy putting together food for 400 Jains who had registered to attend a sermon that evening. I wasn’t too hungry for a pure Jain lunch though- no onions, garlic, and carrots, and my lactose intolerance- I wasn’t craving for a meal here. I ate a couple cookies and drank some water, I was fine for now. At least I had the opportunity to pray with my great-grandfather- an invaluable experience.
Now we are on our way to the airport- flying to Delhi, and then flying to Srinagar tomorrow morning. India is crazy.
Friday, July 24, 2009
Monday, July 13, 2009
Indore
Where I am:
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Yesterday, in Delhi...
- Hot, but very tolerable weather, random rain storms like Boston
- Finally got my McAloo Tiki Burger at McDonalds (best food on Earth)
- Saw Transformers 2(again) in near IMAX size screen, got soda and popcorn, reclining seats, all for under $5
- Someone behind me yelled "Arey, robot naraaz ho gaya!" ("That robot is maaaaadd" in Hindi) when Bumblebee transformed and started shooting the little Decepticons. So funny
- Met 10 or so "Jain Scholars", professors from universities around the world (Spain, China, Japan, US, Thailand, Belgium, UK) who are spending 7 weeks in India and had an eye-opening discussion with them about Jainism
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In Indore today! We flew here in the morning from Delhi. Family from both my mom and dad's sides live around here and we are hanging out with them this week.
Indore is smaller than Delhi, but just as crowded and congested as the capital. Driving here is a nightmare. Traffic rules have yet to be followed by most people. Watch out for cars, scooters, motor cycles, auto rikshas, bikes, people, and the occasional animal on the side of the street- its like Moo Moo Meadows in Mario Kart.
Whenever we come to Indore, the first thing our cousins take us to are the megamalls. We spent a few hours at "Treasure Island" yesterday- hanging out, buying stuff, sitting in Barista (an even fancier version of Starbucks) and playing scrabble, and finally, eating dinner at an awesome Italian restaurant called "Little Italy". Apparently there is a new mall which we will probably head over to as well.
In Indore, the dichotomy between the rich and the poor is too apparent. Enormous, beautiful, modern, centrally air-conditioned buildings stand right next to dilapidated "dhabas" where the poorest people tend to work. Mercedes and BMW's cruise the same roads where makeshift tents are set up. Skinny boys and girls wearing muddy clothes tap on the car windows, pointing to their copies of People magazine (with MJ dancing on the cover) and gesturing to their mouth. While poor people roam around outside, our family lives in a gated villa in an all newly-constructed area, with two cars, a motorcycle, security guard, driver, cook, house cleaner, garden, A/C, multiple rooms, wireless internet, etc.
In India, this is normal. With 1.2 billion people in one country, poverty is something that will always exist while the rich get richer. But, India has many plans to reduce poverty rates within the next 25-50 years. More and more poor people are moving into the middle class, and literacy rates are greatly improving. One day the income equality will dissipate- it will take many years though.
Anyways, we are relaxing here for the rest of the week and spending time with relatives I haven't seen in three years. I've been eating at least twice as much and sitting around talking and playing cards. One more month of this and I'll be a completely different person.
Lunchtime, peace.
View Larger Map
-----------
Yesterday, in Delhi...
- Hot, but very tolerable weather, random rain storms like Boston
- Finally got my McAloo Tiki Burger at McDonalds (best food on Earth)
- Saw Transformers 2(again) in near IMAX size screen, got soda and popcorn, reclining seats, all for under $5
- Someone behind me yelled "Arey, robot naraaz ho gaya!" ("That robot is maaaaadd" in Hindi) when Bumblebee transformed and started shooting the little Decepticons. So funny
- Met 10 or so "Jain Scholars", professors from universities around the world (Spain, China, Japan, US, Thailand, Belgium, UK) who are spending 7 weeks in India and had an eye-opening discussion with them about Jainism
-------------
In Indore today! We flew here in the morning from Delhi. Family from both my mom and dad's sides live around here and we are hanging out with them this week.
Indore is smaller than Delhi, but just as crowded and congested as the capital. Driving here is a nightmare. Traffic rules have yet to be followed by most people. Watch out for cars, scooters, motor cycles, auto rikshas, bikes, people, and the occasional animal on the side of the street- its like Moo Moo Meadows in Mario Kart.
Whenever we come to Indore, the first thing our cousins take us to are the megamalls. We spent a few hours at "Treasure Island" yesterday- hanging out, buying stuff, sitting in Barista (an even fancier version of Starbucks) and playing scrabble, and finally, eating dinner at an awesome Italian restaurant called "Little Italy". Apparently there is a new mall which we will probably head over to as well.
In Indore, the dichotomy between the rich and the poor is too apparent. Enormous, beautiful, modern, centrally air-conditioned buildings stand right next to dilapidated "dhabas" where the poorest people tend to work. Mercedes and BMW's cruise the same roads where makeshift tents are set up. Skinny boys and girls wearing muddy clothes tap on the car windows, pointing to their copies of People magazine (with MJ dancing on the cover) and gesturing to their mouth. While poor people roam around outside, our family lives in a gated villa in an all newly-constructed area, with two cars, a motorcycle, security guard, driver, cook, house cleaner, garden, A/C, multiple rooms, wireless internet, etc.
In India, this is normal. With 1.2 billion people in one country, poverty is something that will always exist while the rich get richer. But, India has many plans to reduce poverty rates within the next 25-50 years. More and more poor people are moving into the middle class, and literacy rates are greatly improving. One day the income equality will dissipate- it will take many years though.
Anyways, we are relaxing here for the rest of the week and spending time with relatives I haven't seen in three years. I've been eating at least twice as much and sitting around talking and playing cards. One more month of this and I'll be a completely different person.
Lunchtime, peace.
Saturday, July 11, 2009
Welcome to India
I am in:
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In India! Its 7 am here, but still more like 10 pm on my schedule. I got to my cousin's house here in Delhi last night. On the plane, I watched: Harry Potter and the Order of the Phoenix, Batman Begins, Scrubs, House, and 30 Rock. A little kid sitting next to me kept on kicking me on the plane...for fourteen hours. FML.
The best thing about going to India? The first wiff of the hot, muggy air as you as you walk off the plane and into the jetway. It brought back all of my memories of the many months I've spent here over the years. The newly remodeled Delhi airport is awesome- and after a half hour of swine flu checks, immigrations, baggage claim, and customs, Priyanka jij and I walked out into the 90 degree nighttime heat. It was awesome.
My uncle and cousin met us there and we took their Ford Fiesta (I didn't know there was Ford in India either) back to their new house in Green Park. We met up with my mom on the way, who had just come to Delhi from Muzzafaranagar- a town where her parents live. My dad arrived on a different flight a few hours later- and for the first time in almost 3 weeks, the Jain family was reunited. I got my cell phone and wireless internet all set up.
By the way, Transformers 2 just came out here... I wouldn't be in the least bit ashamed to see it again. I will be that one guy who can say he saw it in two countries. whaadddupp
I crashed for a couple hours, but now I'm wide awake and wicked hungry. At 7 am, Delhi is covered by clouds and it is hot and muggy- the monsoons (epic rains) are due to start in a few days though. Many other Indian cities already got them. While the monsoons bring more tolerable weather, they also bring more travel delays and mosquitos. AC is good.
I'm hanging out in Delhi today. Tomorrow, I'm headed to Indore, where my dad's side of the family lives.
View Larger Map
In India! Its 7 am here, but still more like 10 pm on my schedule. I got to my cousin's house here in Delhi last night. On the plane, I watched: Harry Potter and the Order of the Phoenix, Batman Begins, Scrubs, House, and 30 Rock. A little kid sitting next to me kept on kicking me on the plane...for fourteen hours. FML.
The best thing about going to India? The first wiff of the hot, muggy air as you as you walk off the plane and into the jetway. It brought back all of my memories of the many months I've spent here over the years. The newly remodeled Delhi airport is awesome- and after a half hour of swine flu checks, immigrations, baggage claim, and customs, Priyanka jij and I walked out into the 90 degree nighttime heat. It was awesome.
My uncle and cousin met us there and we took their Ford Fiesta (I didn't know there was Ford in India either) back to their new house in Green Park. We met up with my mom on the way, who had just come to Delhi from Muzzafaranagar- a town where her parents live. My dad arrived on a different flight a few hours later- and for the first time in almost 3 weeks, the Jain family was reunited. I got my cell phone and wireless internet all set up.
By the way, Transformers 2 just came out here... I wouldn't be in the least bit ashamed to see it again. I will be that one guy who can say he saw it in two countries. whaadddupp
I crashed for a couple hours, but now I'm wide awake and wicked hungry. At 7 am, Delhi is covered by clouds and it is hot and muggy- the monsoons (epic rains) are due to start in a few days though. Many other Indian cities already got them. While the monsoons bring more tolerable weather, they also bring more travel delays and mosquitos. AC is good.
I'm hanging out in Delhi today. Tomorrow, I'm headed to Indore, where my dad's side of the family lives.
Friday, July 10, 2009
Final Preparations
After the wild success of other people's blogs (Niti), I decided that I should make one of my own and tell people about my travels in India and put up some pictures and write a little bit. I also want to show my friends who haven't been to India that it is not just the setting for "Slumdog Millionaire", but much much more.
India Trip: July 10th to August 11th
So, Mama Jain is already in India. She's been there for 2 weeks. My sister, dad, and I are leaving today. I am flying to Newark, and then taking a 14 hour flight to New Delhi. I have never taken this long of a flight before- usually we fly to London or Amsterdam or Frankfurt and then to Delhi- but many people have told me that the direct is much easier.
This is my plan for the 14 hour flight.
Right before flight: Take a solid dose of Nyquil.
Departure
Hour 1: Sleep
Hour 2: Sleep
Hour 3: Sleep
Hour 4: Sleep
Hour 5: Sleep
Hour 6: Sleep
Hour 7: Sleep
Hour 8: Sleep
Hour 9: Get up, recover from sleep
Hour 10: Eat my vegetarian non-dairy meal!
Hour 11: Finish Atul Gwande's "Complications"
Hour 12: Start Atul Gwande's "Better"
Hour 13: Read, Ipod, chill
Hour 14: Watch descent into India
Arrival
I have to finish cleaning the house. Next post from Delhi, India.
India Trip: July 10th to August 11th
So, Mama Jain is already in India. She's been there for 2 weeks. My sister, dad, and I are leaving today. I am flying to Newark, and then taking a 14 hour flight to New Delhi. I have never taken this long of a flight before- usually we fly to London or Amsterdam or Frankfurt and then to Delhi- but many people have told me that the direct is much easier.
This is my plan for the 14 hour flight.
Right before flight: Take a solid dose of Nyquil.
Departure
Hour 1: Sleep
Hour 2: Sleep
Hour 3: Sleep
Hour 4: Sleep
Hour 5: Sleep
Hour 6: Sleep
Hour 7: Sleep
Hour 8: Sleep
Hour 9: Get up, recover from sleep
Hour 10: Eat my vegetarian non-dairy meal!
Hour 11: Finish Atul Gwande's "Complications"
Hour 12: Start Atul Gwande's "Better"
Hour 13: Read, Ipod, chill
Hour 14: Watch descent into India
Arrival
I have to finish cleaning the house. Next post from Delhi, India.
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